How Was Adalaj Ni Vav Built, 500 Years Ago?

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This is an example of an architect’s quick sketch of Adalaz Ni Vav and is an representative  example of work the students would do at each site we visited.  When they started many of them felt inadequate but their skills improved with practice and some have more than one sketch book to remember all the architecture they were exposed to  in India!

I have tried not to bore my readers with too much architecture, but these step-wells are so amazing.  They are built of sandstone and use the traditional interlocking system to keep the wells in place. The details reflect both Hindu and Islamic influence, though there is more use of  Hindu elements.  Interesting because the ruler and his wife who started this project and the man who finished it were Mogul or Muslim.  The approach from three directions is by flights of stairs. The stairs lead to a  court with an octagonal opening. Ornate oriel windows accentuate each of the four corners of  the landing.  This is where the woman wanted their pictures taken, wearing my hat. 712px-Adalaj_Stepwell_II

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I found this architect’s drawing on the net.

This is an oriel window built in the 16th century  in London.

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According to About.com Architecture,  oriel windows  are defined as windows originating  as a kind of porch. They are window openings that don’t extend to the ground but are supported by brackets.

A series of steps descend from here for five stories, forming a  long vertical corridor to the kund (tank) and main well shaft. The beams, columns, and brackets on each level are covered with geometric , animal or floral stone cut designs. The third floor  shows a frieze of Krishna, the Hindu trinity, and women churning buttermilk.

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The entrance landing. . . .

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Stairs . . . .  .

The well. . . . .  . .

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The well is filled during monsoon as there is little if any other  precipitation during the preceding  months.  We were in India for 4 months, and only experienced a few minutes of drizzle during all that time.

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Hindu decoration. . . . . .

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Mogul (Muslim) decorations. . . .

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Actor and star Amitabh Bachchan planning the Breathe a Bit of Gujarat tourist commercials .   I will post it another time!

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Adalaj Ni Vav is one of the most photographed and visited sites in all of Gujarat.  It is a must see if you are in Ahmedabad.

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Namaste. . . . This Is Incredible India!

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Pray For Egypt Demonstrators Marking The Killing of Christians

Bless these brave Egyptians for standing up for the freedom of religion which for so many centuries has been the law of the land!

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The Vision of Queen Ruda

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The star was always covered by an umbrella. He is quite well known and popular in the TV and Bollywood movies. Maybe someone can tell us his  name.

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I always love these “clash of culture” pictures. . . . . both ancient and modern!

This large group of school kids stood absolutely quietly until the shooting was over.  Then they descended the stairs to learn about this historical site.  There is more  I have to share about  Adalaj Ni Vav and it will be in subsequent posts.

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But back to the beginning. . . .  . .

This is Adalaj Ni Vav considered one of the finest of the Gujarati step-wells and  is located more out in the outskirts of Ahmedabad than Dada Hari Ni Vav. https://talesalongtheway.com/?s=Dada+Hari+Ni+Vav

It was commissioned by the Queen Ruda, the wife of Vaghela Chidf Vikramsinh in 1498. She built it as a place of rest for  traders, pilgrims and women collecting the daily needs of water for their families. The well contains religious (Hindu) and secular (Muslim) carvings.  Locals still visit the shrine of goddess the second gallery to seek her blessing after marriages.

According to folklore, Sutan Begada killed Vikramsinh and asked his widow Ruda to marry him. She agreed but only after he finished her pet project which is now Adalaja Ni Vav which her husband had begun. The new ruler agreed.  But upon completion, the queen jumped to her death in the well shaft to demonstrate her faithfulness to her first husband. A second tale is that the new king asked the masons if they could reproduce this project. When they agreed they could, he had them killed to prevent any replication of such splendid craft. The stonemasons’ tombs are just above the step-well.

The first mention of this practice of self-immolation goes back to the 4th Century BC by a Greek historian.India has a long history of self-immolation of widows of kings and rulers.   The act is called sati  and today  is against the law in India.  There was a famous act of sati in 1987 when  a well educated 18 year old woman who was married only 8 months threw herself on the funeral pyre of her husband. There was a trial and people were convicted of encouraging this illegal act.

I wish there were images from the 15th Century, but there aren’t, just photos from our vists.  There is the filming of the TV show in which were were tourists playing tourists.

https://talesalongtheway.com/2013/03/22/we-really-are-rock-stars-action-tv-stars/

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One of my favorite pictures which I have used before, is me holding the baby after he was placed  in my arms for me  to bless…by touching him on his head. It was quite an unexpected honor. Women were also taking my hat to have their pictures taken.  Amazing! I think Queen Ruda would approve, don’t you ?

Pictures by Erin Butler and Shane Gavett.

Namaste. . . . .. This is Incredible India!

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Mother Nature in Full Force Tsunami Japan- Shocking New Video

Shocking new video of 2011 Tsunami in Japan recording the very moments the Tsunami entered the country.  Watch in full screen and listen to the poor souls sobbing as they film from the hill. You will hear their voices as they watch the tsunami approaching higher and higher and faster and faster. As I watched this, I thought of the poor people in Pompeii and Herculaneum watching the clouds of dust approaching that would  turn them into volcanic stone in southern Italy about  79 AD. Ironically, in both these disasters of Biblical proportions, centuries apart ,approximately 16,000 people died.

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Navratri Garba

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Indians love to dance!  I am sure you have seen those huge dance scenes in the middle of Bollywood films where the whole casts stops doing whatever they were doing to dance. It must be in their blood and the more joyful the better. This the attitude brought to this autumn festival which  is dedicated to the worship of the Hindu deity Druga, the mother goddess.

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The word Navratri means nine nights during which the celebration happens, and the date is determined by the lunar calendar. This is a major festival in the Western states of India as well as in the north.

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This is the celebration in Baroda, a city near Ahmedabad. Wow, what a crowd!

The Garba dance is performed for the mother goddess.  This year the festival dates are October 5-13th, so wish your Indian friends, a happy Navratri!

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How elegant. . . . .

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Traditional costumes and colors. . . . .

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Dancing, which is very fast and energetic,  is open to all, costumed or not. .  . . .

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Mementos for every occasion. . . . . .Navarathri_at_Parashakthi_Temple

This celebration of music, singing, and dancing is a request for wisdom, spiritual blessings, and wealth.  My friend Chandresh, the filmmaker of whom I have written in several posts, told me  this morning that the film he was producing was over and the next one was not scheduled  to be shot until after this 10 day, 9 night festival.  These celebrations are enjoyed with energy and joy. Most  Indian people have innumerable challenges in their daily lives, but they bring so much joy to simple things like flying kites, throwing colors for Holi,  singing, and dancing. I think …no I know, westerners could learn from the Indian people about “being joyful in all circumstances!”

Namaste. . . . . .This Is Incredible India.. . . . . .Happy Navratri!

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Rock Stars !?!? Reblog from 02/2013

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One of my blogger friends, suggested that once a week, I reblog some of my earlier posts about India. I think I will because I had few readers then and I believe some of you will enjoy reliving my journey from the beginning! Ahmedabad was our home base and where it all began!

 Ahmedabad is not a tourist destination. It is a working class city which used to be called the Manchester (UK) of India due to the many fabric mills. It could also be dubbed the Boston of India because of the 42 institutions of higher learning in or around Ahmedabad. None of my India American friends had been to Ahmedabad. Ironically, it was voted the most livable city in India for the year 2012. Mr. Modi, who is the minister for Gujarat, is being courted to run for Prime Minister in 2014 because of his success here.

None of us were prepared for the reception we received when we arrived. Everywhere we walked, people smiled, said hello, and asked to have a picture taken with some or all of us. This wasn’t just the “twenty-somethings”, but David and me as well.  They would motion for us to remove our sunglasses to check  our eye color. If it was blue, we were rewarded with a huge smile. Two students were particularly popular for pictures.  Tyler, a redhead with blue eyes, a towering 6’ frame, and a gregarious personality, makes friends everywhere he goes.  Erin has golden curls and deep blue eyes. She has had repeated proposals of marriage, to which she sweetly smiles and acknowledges with a polite “No, thank you.”

From these experiences as well as watching Bollywood videos and commercials on TV for skin lightening products, it is evident that light skin is considered desirable. There are people of all ages with a certain shade of  orange hair which I image is a result of trying to lighten their hair. ( Now I know it is henna. See Henna Hands!)  I guess it is the human condition that makes people long for something different; such as Westerners working hard to darken their skin even at the risk  of endangering their health in tanning beds.

The pictures: 9th graders and me at the Modhera Sun Temple

Step Well (Adalaj Ni Vav)  near Ahmedabad , David and me on the steps. Pictures by Shane.

My favorite picture is of the mother who had handed me her baby son so un-expectantly.  I know now, that she wanted me to touch the top of his head in a blessing.  Mothers’ love is universal!  (Thanks, Connie D.)

Many thanks to the gentle, friendly, welcoming Indians of Almedabad!

Student blogs by Andrew and my tech girl, Erin: (Thanks for your patient tech help, Erin!)

http://andrewvanmeerbeke.wordpress.com

http://travelpod.com/members/erinbutler

Enjoy!  Nameste. . . . T I I  ImageImageImage

Namaste. . . . .This Is Incredible India!

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Henna Hands

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The first weekend we were all in Ahmedabad, we were off to the market in the old city. The crowds, the stalls, the food, the animals were just overwhelming! One of my earliest ever posts was about this visit.  ( last paragraph) https://talesalongtheway.com/2013/02/12/feral-dogs/

There were women with tubs of henna water pulling at our girls to get their hands done.  Finally they agreed.  In the picture you can see Liz in process and Mallory’s arm.  Okki was in line and she was overcharged, but it was a story for her to tell.  A crown formed everywhere we stopped. This one, not really seen from the photo, was so large that a policeman came to see what was causing it.  Just a group of Americans!

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Henna has been around and used for cosmetic purposes since antiquity! There are evidences  of it used in  the Roman Empire, Egypt, Africa, and the Arabian Peninsula.  The allure of henna used for body art also included using it to dye dark hair to a much lighter , yellowish blonde tone.

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Obviously , this is an older woman, but we saw this color of hair on men and younger women , as well. Henna has been the cosmetic of choice to dye skin, hair and fingernails for centuries.  I couldn’t find just where the tradition began, but I bet it was incredible India!

Henna hands are the most well known.  I brought back henna powder  for my granddaughters, but needed a pattern and I found a whole display in the local craft center.  My architect says this is the first step to permanent tattoos. Might be true in America as tats are everywhere, but in India? I don’t remember seeing any  permanent tattoos.  6807551-hand-drawn-henna-mehndi-heart-flower-butterfly-and-paisley-doodle-illustration-design-elementsThese are some of the many patters that you might see on a women’s hands. But the artists just draw free hand with a small squeeze bag of henna.  The girls and I had it done at a bride’s home the night before her wedding.  It goes on a very dull color, but if you don’t wash it until the next day, the color changes to the henna red color and stays on your hands for about a week, depending on how often and hard you wash your hands!

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I don’t  know how much it costs in India, because the host refused when we offered to pay the henna artist and wouldn’t even let us tip her!

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Red is the traditional color for the brides at Indian weddings.  They have their10689078-indian-wedding-bride-getting-henna-applied-marriage-engagement hands and feet done.  A little like manicures and pedicures!

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There are special halls where weddings are celebrated.  The festivities go on for several days.  The night before the public celebration, the bride and her woman friends are at her house for the henna application.   The groom celebrates with his family and friends at his home….no word of any henna, though.

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The entrance of the wedding halls have billowing fabric to make it be a fairy tale experience.  Some weddings of extremely wealthy people are in hotels or other more elaborate venues.

Early in our stay we were invited to a very elegant wedding by a family who was friends with one of our students.  As you will see, we splurged with purchase of party clothes. We had  to pose for lots of pictures as the photographers lined up. It really only stopped when a voice rang out and the photographers turned together to take pictures of Mr. Modi, the Chief Minister of Gujarat who is indeed a rock star. (Many feel he will be chosen the next Prime Minister of India, if his party wins the parliamentary elections next year. )

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The bride and groom look exhausted but aren’t we a lovely group?

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This was on Facebook and my daughter’s friends called us “cute!”   Come on …maybe elegant or suave or something a tad less juvenile!

Namaste. . . . . . .. . .This Is Incredible India!

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WWII Vets Storm the Memorial

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Seventy years ago, these men left their homes to fight fascism that was slowly creeping like kudzu vine over the landscape  chocking out  freedom in country after country.

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This week these brave men were in the midst of the word of words in Washington . . . . .partisan bickering that led to government shut-down. One hundred forty WWII veterans from Mississippi and Idaho were scheduled to visit “their” memorial for the first and  probably last time. The Veterans’ Affairs estimate that 640 WW II vets die each day.  With this in mind, some grateful Americans have started the Honor Flight for the elderly veterans  to be  flown to Washington to see the  memorial. This is a dream fulfilled for veterans who want to and are well enough to make the trip. These veterans are in their late 80s or 90s.

Honor Flight is concentrating on  WW II veterans’s trips, then Korean War Veterans, and finally on Viet Nam Veterans. This group was started in May of 2005 by Earl Morse a physician assistant  and retired Air Force Captain.  He wanted to honor the Vets whom he had cared for the last 27 years. South West Airlines donates free tickets in thanks to  these heroes.VeteransMemorial_11643628_8col

Another sad story is that the cemetery in Normandy is also closed to people who have planned and saved to visit that holy ground. In my opinion…it is more than despicable!

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As evidenced in the photos, Time Is of the Essence for these soldiers to come to honor their long ago fallen comrades.

http://www.usatoday.com/story/news/nation/2013/10/01/honor-flights-shutdown/2903341/    ( copy and paste to the URL to see the video)

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Dr. Archer K. Tullidge

“I surrender all, I surrender all,”                                                                                                        All to Jesus, I surrender, I surrender all.” ( Words from an old hymn)

These words are a testimony to my brother Arch’s life which ended on this earth last week.  He had dreamed of  being a medical missionary to  go to Africa to use his passion to teach and heal among the poorest of the poor.  For whatever the reason, that door was closed so Arch changed course and went to West Virginia to the heart of coal country to serve there.  Because he was not happy to have the union tell him how to practice medicine, he left for East Tennessee which is  also in Appalachia. I remember he was the only doc for 18,000 souls when he first went to minister to them.  He was on duty 24/7 , and often delivered babies and officiated at funerals as well as healing.  The people loved this big bear of a man who was always full of stories and love. He was the doc who would tell patients to lose weight when he himself struggled with his love of food and also his struggles with nicotine. He was understanding when patients were not perfect. Patients would sometimes pay with potatoes or other items of barter.  Arch built a clinic and later a hospital.  I remember the first time I visited there that many houses and barns were unpainted. I had never seen that before.  It was due to poverty that people had no money for paint. This was Mountain City years ago, but now it is more thriving. It is here that Arch wish to be buried.

The family grew by leaps and bounds as 5 boys arrived in 5 1/2 years. Dot had her hands full as did  Arch with his never ending line of  patients. They stayed until another door was closed and Arch had serious eye problems that made it necessary to find a less stressful practice.  He went to work in an Emergency Room..less stressful?  He also joined the Veteran Hospital system to work with the veterans and especially loved the World Word I I vets with their stories of  courage and determination.  And he cared for the Native Americans who were near his V A Hospital  in South Dakota.

More and serious health problems arose and he retired from the VA system.  But he was going to try one more time to go overseas . They were all set to go to Belize when there was a medical crisis that made this move impossible.  With such grace, he and Dot  said that they were happy some other younger couple would now get the opportunity to serve…no anger at yet another door closing in their lives.

They moved from Florida to Alabama and  Arch was exhibiting more and more symptoms of Parkansons …again with no complaint or anger.Slowly he became more and more inferred, but his mind stayed clear until the end.  He asked Dot to try and keep him at home as long as possible.  He died at home. They cherished the time to remember their life together, to talk and just sit together after years of the life of a busy committed doctor.  Arch, ever the story teller, was able to share and inspire residents from the University of Alabama . Many of them continued to visit long after their class was over.

Life in bed became a reality and lasted for nearly five years. That long and final refining seemed to many a burden almost unbearable, but Arch and Dot surrendered that as well.  Arch would always be cheerful on the phone and never angry or complaining. This was the life he was to live and he met it with the  same joy of other seasons in his life. He was quick to share his faith and hope and to encourage lovingly all who called even when  speaking became more and more  a struggle.  Last week, his time on earth was over.

His life was a continuum of loving God with all his heart, mind , and soul and loving  his neighbors as himself. For all the “least among us” to whom he ministered body and soul. I thank God.  For his example of perseverance, love,  and faith, I am also grateful.

I also thank God for His promise:

“Blessed is the man who preservers under trial, because when he has stood the test, he will receive the crown of life that God has promised to those who love him. ”                                                                                             James 1:12

Amen

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New York to Tennessee

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Hear we  began our whirlwind trip to Tennessee, round trip  of 1600 miles from Monday until we returned home last night. We went to honor my brother and share the celebration of his life with the family.  In spite of the the long trip, and  the many annoying trucks, the landscape was beautiful, first starting in New York, down through the Shenandoah Valley of Virginia, and into East Tennessee. Arch’s choice for his  burial place was Mountain City.  Our journey began after  his passing, and was blessed with the beauty and peace of the autumn. The leaves are turning  such vivid colors as they wave goodbye, carried  by the wind to the ground. Arch’s life was full of color which  I will share when I get my thoughts together.  Here are some glimpses of our journey. . . .  .

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May your journey be full of color and peace. . . . . .namaste

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