Ahmedabad’s Manek Chowk :Market by Day, Crowded Eatery at Night. .

100_2893Manek Chowk is the central square of Ahmedabad’s oldest district, The Pols.  During the day  it is the liveliest market in Ahmedabad where fruits, spices, traditional steel kitchen and table utensils are sold as well as a section of bright Indian fabrics.  The central plaza is ringed with various gold and silver shops with a varied display of jewelry to make any a bride smile. Having crowds of hungry patrons in the square at night is extra security for the jewelry stores.  At night the, the square is transformed into a giant outdoor restaurant complete with tables, chairs, vendor booths and hundreds of hungry patrons. This tradition of serving food every night of the year, began in the early 20th Century when hungry workers returned after late hours of work in the many nearby fabric mills.  We had heard about Manek Chowk the whole time we were in Ahmedabad, but had never gone at night.  I am not sure why, maybe because The Pols or Old City was  far from where we lived, or because some of the students had  become sick from eating street food near Cept University.  Whatever the case may have been , we decided to go the last week with a guide and friend from Cept. The city has, as it turns out, set down some pretty strict regulations of meeting sanitary guidelines. Throwing all caution to the wind, we ate with gusto.  And the food, excitement, smells, tastes, and complete sensory explosion  made it a night to remember.  We especially loved the chocolate and cheese pizza, and pineapple, chocolate, and cheese sandwiches    Really, I am not kidding.  It may just be some Indian magic , but they were delicious. And not a one of us was sick during the night or the next day from our late supper  in  Manek Chowk. By the time the square is set up and food is prepared, the festivities starts about 10 o’clock.  If you have a chance to experience this place, day, night or both …..don’t miss it!

This video by Jaymin Modi,  made me laugh with the memories of this special place.  Enjoy.

Nameste. . . . T I I

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An Indian Dream House?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Magazines are filled with pictures of the  homes of the rich and famous.  They seem to fly off the shelves at the market. Even today, I drove through a lovely neighborhood where I saw a sign for a Vanguard House. Every year in the spring, some  homes are decorated and put on display for people to pay to visit  and see how the other half lives…..and dream.  What would your house be if money was no object and you could have anything  you wanted? I have actually given this some thought and  I would want a Mediterranean Villa with an central  interior garden surrounded by rooms. There would be flowers and a lovely fountain and every room would have a view and access to the garden. I would never have to wash all those windows, and the site would be somewhere other than upstate New York and the cold snowy winters.  Actually, India would be a great place for my dream house even if the Mediterranean Sea is quite far away.

The picture at the top is the dream house in India. Actually, it is the dream house of the world. It was built for the Mukesh Ambani family in Mumbai. Mr. Ambani has the distinction of being the wealthiest man in India. He certainly has the Midas touch when it comes to his fortune; made from a conglomeration of oil companies  and communications under the name of Reliance.    He is worth a cool $43 billion and is listed by Forbes as the 4th richest man in the world.  So we don’t need to worry about his bank account being depleted by this sky scrapper house which cost $1 billion dollars…yes billion!

The family had great fun planning their dream house! It is filled  to the brim of its 400,000 square feet with crystal chandeliers and sterling silver  railings, for Mrs. Amani, though,to me,  much of the interiors resemble a very fancy hotel instead of a home. 5_things_about_antilla

There is a health club, a gym, and a dance studio for any form of exercise as well as a swimming pool. There are guest rooms , a variety of lounges as well as 3 helicopter pads on the roof.  If they are having a large party there is a car garage in the skyscraper to park 160 cars. Something really fun for the three children is a snow-room, perfect for those hot , humid Mumbai summer days  when they might just need to cool off  in the man-made flakes. So as not to bore the family, no two floors have the same floor plan or repeated building materials. Yes, this 27 floor personal house for one family has a mother, father, and three children.  No word of an extended family living there, but to make sure that all runs smoothly in the Antilla House, there are six-hundred..yes 600 servants!  This is to insure that Mr. Ambani can return now to his next building project of the world’s largest oil refinery knowing that all is running smoothly at home.  040920081159

This is the view from the Ambani’s house….the Arabian Sea and the infamous Mumbai slums. I wonder if ever they  give a thought to “Loving their neighbors as they love themselves?”

Oh if you do have some idea of a plan for your own personal dream house, do please share it  with me!

Nameste….T I I

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Tiny Indian Squirrel

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Though it looks like our chipmunk, this is a  squirrel found only in parts of  India.  We noticed them scooting up the trees and across the lane where we lived in Ahmedabad.  The  first significant encounter I had with this  tiny animal was in Agra.  You might remember the  most famous building in Agra is the sublimely beautiful  Taj Mahal . I was walking through the windy, narrow streets with several of the girls going  back to our hotel.  We noticed that at the nearby intersection, traffic was completely  stopped.  Several men were standing in a circle in the center of the street.  On the ground was an obviously hurt squirrel trashing around as if  tying to get up or catch its breath. It seemed  near death , as far as I could tell. No one touched the squirrel,  no on one hurried on her way, no one blew his horn, impatiently; cars just  stopped in the middle of the road.  We passed by without stopping  like the priest and the Levite in the Parable of the Good Samaritan. We did comment that in the states, the squirrel would not have gotten so much attention and probably would have been put out of its misery by being hit again with another car.  But in India, this tiny, insignificant animal’s life is treated  as a gift from God.

I was curious about the mythology so I Goggled it! There is a story in the Holy Book of Ramayana about Rama and the squirrel. The squirrel was trying to help the larger animals build a bridge, and they laughed at his effort and size. Rama blessed the tiny squirrel by stroking his back with his three fingers.   Even today , the Indian squirrel shows this blessing by wearing three stripes on is back. Indian-Palm-Squirrel-2

squirrel with rama

Images from Krishha Mohan 2010, and Creative.Sulekha.com

“The Victory of the Little Squirrel”  from Naraya Hari’s Blog

“Everyone has different gifts and capabilities. We should try to perform to the best of our ability, however difficult the task may be.” From the myth “The Victory of the Little Squirrel”

Nameste. . . . . T I  I

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Sunday Market in Ahmedabad

This market is named “Sunday” solely because of it’s location at the end of the Ellis Bridge and its”business only on Sunday”.  There are daily markets all over the city as these are  the places where everyday people do their shopping. I would imagine that most people in Ahmedabad have never been to Himalaya Mall or Alpha One Mall, and probably don’t know of their existence. The Sunday Market is on the old city side of the river.  Ahmedabad proper is divided by the river with the old and new city on opposite shorelines. It reminded me of Buda and Peshest divided by the Danube River in Hungary.This spot at the end of Ellis Bridge was the same location where our shooting for the TV episode began.    Image

The director, in the light shirt, is blocking a shot with the star who was always covered, when the camera wasn’t rolling, by the umbrella carried by a young assistant. This is to prevent sunburn or tanning. As I discussed before, light skin is always preferable. We even  saw, on numerous occasions,  young women wearing  elbow length  gloves while riding motorbikes to prevent sun on their arms.

This Sunday, we came in a rickshaw to experience the Sunday Market first hand. Image

Our driver, Suneil,  parked and came with us.  We were surprised, but he insisted upon walking behind us as there are pickpockets in the crowded, winding market. Items are arranged by category so that there is some order, but mostly you wonder, look, and buy if you want a bargain   Unlike some of the other markets, bargaining is encouraged which David loves. I, on the other hand, always  think “Oh, they are so poor and need the money……”  David’s reply is that Indian people have been bartering for thousands of years and they won’t be cheated.  In fact, as in Egypt, the merchants appeared to enjoy the sport of bartering with David.

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Everything was sold at the”S M” including fold-up beds, pots and pans, clothes and spices.There were even green parakeets and bunnies which of course the animal lover….loved!ImageImageImage

Next, we made our way to the goat market, which we observed from above.  People buy goats for their milk and the Muslim people often use them for meat.

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There are aways lots of sweets to satisfy the Gurjurati sweet tooth! Image As we stopped on the bridge leading  us back  to” our” section of the city, we took one last look  at  the crowded,  noisy, hot, market teaming with the masses of Sunday shoppers.

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We decided that this had been an adventure, but our favorite market, any day of the week, is found in old town Ahmedabad. After all we had seen a elephant there with his rider guiding the big fellow through the crowded streets.  Hard to beat that!  Image

Nameste. . . . .T I I

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Portuguese Goa

As the students enjoyed  the promised two restful days on the beaches, David and I headed down to explore  the Portuguese footprint in India, mostly the churches. Now we have seen many churches all over Europe, and are not easily impressed. These  churches are  impressive, and this one the most spectacular.   The Portuguese are some of the most devout Catholic Christians  today and their churches constructed  hundreds of years ago, suggest, they have always been religious. Image  This is St Francis Xavier’s church of the  Bascillica  of Bom Jesus. It is one of the major Baroque churches in India and was completed  in 1602. The image is from Wikipedia.

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The alter image is from Britannica.com. This church is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

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This massive tree stands guard at the entrance. I couldn’t but wonder if it had been there from the beginning….four hundred and eleven years.

On the drive to Mount Mary church, we passed this “garden of houseplants!” 100_3267

Vasco da Gama was the explorer who first arrived in Western India in 1505.  The Portuguese remained a strong presence until 1954. ( Independence from Britain was in 1947.) da Gama was just one of the elusive explorers when I was in school as he didn’t make it to America.  I was glad to see where he landed.

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No exploration of ancient sites is complete without some ruins. Once,  our children became so tired of ruins on a trip to Italy, they refused to budge from the car.  I have to admit, sometimes I get tired, too, but not today.  Off we went to the ruins of St Augustine church and convent.  The story is that there was some disagreement between the Augustinians and the Jesuits which lead to the abandonment of this large complex. All that remains is the 46 meter tower and stone pillars.  100_3271

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As our final stop, we headed up a very large hill to Cathedral of Mount Mary which is closed except for weddings and special holy days.100_3269

What we had come to see was not the church but the view, which was unforgettable. The dense jungle with the large white churches emerging from the  darkness.  Darkness of imperfect men and faith systems ….darkness of greed and colonialism ….sadly the condition of the human heart.  May  we have courage to move towards the light and let our light shine in the world of darkness.

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Nameste…….T I I

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Ta Ta For Now!

Image A season comes to an end as another begins.  Our spring season in India has turned into 108-109 degrees of summer. The computer challenges of the beginning of our visit have returned with our internet being disconnected. We can thank the terrorists for this new governmental policy of checks on foreigners by re- registering  after 90 days.We understand and are quite supportive , but it is still annoying.  We could reapply, but the return  for a couple of weeks would be much less than the hassle of the Indian bureaucratic madness.  We leave on May 6th.  I have used this  s-l-o-w internet at Cept for the last two postings and it is very tedious. All  the internet problems has been a mystery in this land where the  “I T gene” seems to be in the water. Strange ? I have many more Indian tales to tell about these gracious, patient people who have made such a lasting impression on me. There are  still wonderful sights and memories to share with you as well as more, not so great photos, to post.  My focus during this last week is for  final, not to be missed photos of many sights and people we pass everyday. These photos will help to cement memories for me, there is last minute shopping for my family, some sites we have put off visiting here in Ahmedabad, trips to our favorite restaurants, and maybe a departure extravagance of a facial and massage! I shall join you again from New York, with more tales of India and maybe a few from the Empire State. Right now, my brain  is crowded  with visions  of dancing grandchildren filling my head  . . .and it is time to go home. . . . . Nameste. . . . . .T I I . . . . . .TTFN !

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Jungle Boat

100_3247 Well, I teased you in a previous  post telling you that jungle is a Hindi word, so here are pictures to show you the reason.  Kerala is an enchanting mosaic of rice paddy fields, coconut groves, wide beaches, backwater labyrinths  and jungle.  People of the three major religions coexist peacefully.  The politics of the region alternates  between the left and far-left  candidates.  A pretty amazing statistic is that Kerala boasts the highest literacy rate in all of India. The ancient boat-building industry grew from the plentiful supply of  wood , the proximity to the Arabian Sea, and many backwater canals. The Snake Boat races of today  are  thought to be the world’s largest team sport. In  ancient times, these boats were used to carry warriors. There are a number of backwater tours available.  One is eight hours and  takes you from Kollam to Alleppey where the bus is waiting.  Some European students, who are also here at Cept, took that route and  found  it a rather  long and repetitive.  David decided on the three hour ride which  was also more cost effective.  It was a humid, hot day and the little boat was a sanctuary from the blazing sun. We had a guide who seemed disappointed that we all just wanted to flow quietly through the water.  Enjoy your trip! 100_3249 We stopped for a drink and I made a new friend. This hawk was raised from a chick. 100_3254 One of the many houseboats for hire. The cost is about $200 per night which covers a staff of three, meals and an overnight… Not bad, huh? 100_3257 Nameste…..T I I

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St Thomas Mount, Chennai

Caravaggio: Doubting Thomas Thomas, the saint of doubters, is depicted in Caravaggio’s vivid  painting at the moment of his  belief of the resurrection as his finger is inserted into the wound on Christ’s side.Thomas  was the first missionary for Christ in India where he served, was martyred, and buried in his adopted home. One guide told us that today, Southern India is 20 % Christian with a mix of Catholic and Protestant believers.  St. Thomas’  church in Chennai is one of only three in the world where relics of the  original disciples of Christ are under the alter.  These churches are  St. Thomas Mount, in Chennai,  St. Peter’s in Rome, and the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 100_3207 100_3206 100_3205 Chennai, is the current Indian name to the city that was Madras under the English. Some of you might remember the wonderful plaid cloth from the 60’s with the same name that bled when it was  washed.  This modern city  has a prosperous atmosphere and  is  cleaner than most Indian  city streets, a more organized  plan, trash trucks , but of course the proverbial poverty here and there tucked in the shadows.  There are many international firms, high rise apartment buildings and prominent hotels.  But of course there are rickshaws and buffaloes wandering through the streets , but less than we were used to.  We visited the Chennai palace which is now a museum.  We saw wonderful bronze statues including  the very famous Shiva’s Cosmic Dance. Shiva is the creator god and this is the mythology of the beginning of the cosmos. Naneste……T I I

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Temple Towns in the South of India

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Sacred Architecture was our focus in the Tamil Nadu cities of Srirangam, Chidambaram,Thanjavar, and Madurai. We saw many of the major Hindu Temples but only a tiny fraction of the 30,000 located in the state of Tamil Nadu alone. The temples were part of huge complexes with elaborate towers and are immediately recognizable by the distinct difference from the ones we had seen before. In the North, the soaring tower above the inner sanctum is in the form of a circular mountain.  In the South, there are multi-staged pyramidal spires with a barrel-vaulted roof. Worship for Hindus is in the small dark central sanctuary or womb chamber. The elaborate decoration of the Southern temple towers is stucco figures of deities, mythical animals and monsters painted in vivid colors. (Today, instead of water soluble natural colors used in ancient times, oil based paint is applied to the towers on a twelve year schedule.)  Each temple complex enclosure has major halls conceived for a specific purpose. Some early kings were crowned in the temple.  There is a hall for dancing, offering of sacrifice, a tank for bathing, and several have a one thousand column hall for festivals and rituals.100_3245Image

My thoughts in all of these complexes were that I have been transported to a temple in Biblical times, though none were constructed as early as Solomon’s Temple. The temple in Jerusalem would not have had the graven images prevalent in Indian temples.   We saw huge statues of bulls, themes of fertility, and sacrifices of grain, flowers and fruit. People were milling around, goats were eating the grass poking up through the stones, the walls were high and made from blocks of granite, people were selling religious and non-religious wares, making offerings, standing in line to go into the innermost places, and sleeping in the shade of the huge columns. Some were sitting around the tanks of cleansing water, though no one was waiting to be cured by a dip in the holy water as recounted in the New Testament.  I could imagine much of this activity as well as the  bells ringing and the continuous chanting taking place in Jerusalem and  other ancient  places of  worship.  I also could imagine Christ angrily clearing out the money changers and non-prayerful worshipers from “His Father’s house of prayer”. People were taking short cuts through the temple complexes, carrying their shoes to go about their business at the gate on the other side.  These complexes were the center of the ancient cities.

As we walked barefooted through the complexes truly  having our senses assaulted , David  commented that we were witnessing what we might have prevalent worship  today  if  Greece and Italy had not given up their pantheon of  gods and become  monotheistic in their acceptance of Christianity.

Nameste…….T I I

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South India Here We Come!

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Early tomorrow morning, our group leaves for our trip to the South of India for temples, temples and more temples. We are leaving the computer here. When we went North, it was a nuisance because we could never get on the internet because of challenges with electricity ! We will just  have long tourist days, and I hope to have some tales to share when we return on April 17th.  Some of us just had pasta on the roof of the hostel,  thanks to Giana’s mom “care package”  and realized we will be going back to the US in just a month.  The time has been wonderful and now seems much too short.  We have fallen in love with India!   One question  to leave with you….Did you know that jungle is a Hindi word?

The itinerary is for those of you who want to follow our journey either before or after.

Nameste….T I I

PROPOSED ITINERARY FOR FIELD TRIP APRIL 6 – APRIL 16, 2013 FOR 13 PEOPLE (SELF, WIFE, 11 RENSSELAER ARCHITECTURE STUDENTS)

APRIL 6 – 13: coach for 19 with A/C

DEPART FOR SOUTH ON SATURDAY, APRIL 6

 

APRIL 6: Depart from Presidency Enclave by coach to airport (early morning flight to Chennai from Ahmadabad) arrive early to Chennai and meet with coach to explore the city

Visit: Dakshina-chitra, Kapeleeshwar Temple, St. Andrew’s Kirk, Fort Museum Beach, Check into hotel mid-afternoon

APRIL 6: Hotel for night of April 6 in Chennai

APRIL 7: depart for Auroville at 6am with stop at Mahabalipuram (Mamallapuram)

APRIL 7 & 8: Hotel for nights of April 7 & 8 in Auroville

Visit: Sri Aurobindo Ashram, Perhaps participate in Earth Building Workshop (8:30am – 4:15pm), Ashram/Commune complex, City of Dawn, featuring Matrimandir Auromodel Housing Community, Integrated Learning Center, Solar Kitchen, Visitor’s Center, Vikas Housing, Community Last School. Possible day trip to Pondicherry on April 8.

APRIL 9: depart for Thanjavur at 6am (stop at Chidambaram (Nataraja Temple) on way to Thanjavur)

APRIL 9: Hotel for night in Thanjavur

Visit: Brihadishvara Temple, Observation Tower, Royal Palace: Saraswati Library

APRIL 10: depart for Madurai – if possible, visit Srirangam on way to Madurai

APRIL 10 & 11: Hotel for nights of April 10 & 11 in Madurai

Visit: Minakshi – Sundareshvara temple complex, possible visit to Thiruparankundram, possible visit to tombs of Madurai sultans

APRIL 12: depart for Kollam

APRIL 12: Hotel for night of April 12 in Kollam

APRIL 13: backwater river tour at  Alleppy, (3 hours)

APRIL 13: night in Alleppy

APRIL 14: 6am coach to Kochin airport for flight to Goa

APRIL 14: coach pick up at Goa airport

APRIL 14 & 15: Hotel for nights of April 14 & 15 in Goa (Panaji)

Visit: Beach, Panaji, Old Town

APRIL 16: Train from Goa to Mumbai (arrive at Mumbai VT station at 9:40pm) Bus transfer to Mumbai Central Rail Station. Overnight train to Ahmadabad  departs at 11:25pm

APRIL 17: Arrive Ahmedabad at 5:50am

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This is Incredible South India!

If you could visit India, where would you want to go?  Would you want to visit why or why not?  I have learned that most people have very strong opinions about India either pro or con!  And there seems very little middle ground !

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