TalesAlongTheWay

Taj Mahal

Posted on March 18, 2013 by annetbell

The Taj Mahal is one of the world’s most famous and recognizable buildings. Remember a forlorn Princess Diana sitting on the famous bench, all alone? Her prince was not with her. According to our guide, the Shah, who had this built, did not poke out the Persian architect’s eyes when construction was complete, to insure this design would forever be unique. Many blinded eyes would have been needed to insure that. Just a myth. The true story is quite romantic and familiar to most of us, but there are a few details I learned to share with you. The Shah Jaham had the Taj Mahal built as a burial vault for his beloved wife Mumtaz who died in the 16^th century. But I get ahead of myself. The story goes that the Shah and his wife were camping in the mountains when their 14^th child decided to be born early. Mumtaz developed complications, but before she died asked three things of her husband. She wanted him to promise never to remarry, to cherish and care for their children, and to build her a monument for the world to see of their great love. The third request became his life’s passion and work. It has been described as “one of the most elegant and harmonious buildings in the world.” The height struck us as when first seeing the Pyramids of Giza. The setting is a garden, not just your ordinary garden but an image of the Islamic garden of paradise. The cost was 41,000,000 rupees, 1,102 pounds of gold and it took 20,000 workers twelve years to complete. The Shah’s plan was to build himself a matching tomb, but crafted of black onyx. Imagine! But his oldest son, the new Shah put his father in the fort as a prisoner for the last eight years of his life. The young Shah thought his father had spent enough rupees on his extravagant projects. Maybe the father had not spent enough time “loving and cherishing” that son!

It is impossible for me to say something unforgettable about this day in Agar at the Taj. I will just retell how we spent our time. We spent two nights so we had parts of two days to visit. We got up and walked to be at the site for the sunrise. In India, you are always assured of a sunrise though some are heightened by pollution which brightens the color. We left the hotel at 5:45, yes all the sleepy- headed students, to capture an unforgettable sunrise shot. The grounds open at 6:30 and we were in line for tickets before six. The ticket was for one entry and we had hoped to enter early, go back for breakfast and then return. Much discussion followed. Some chose to enter then and stay. Others went with David and me to walk along the high brick wall to get a behind the Taj shot. As you can see, we weren’t disappointed. We also saw the river and a parade of monkeys jump from the trees and line up on the Taj wall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIrHGgBI2SM&feature=youtu.be (Thanks Erin) Security was extra tight. One person had a hand gun and all that happened was he was told to put it in a locker! We all shuddered to think of a terrorist attack here! If you are planning a visit, Friday the site is closed to all but Muslims who are permitted to pray in the mosque which adjoins the tomb. About half the kids stayed at the Taj from sunrise to sunset and no food is allowed inside. Others were there for many hours and even watched the sunset from the roof of a restaurant. Though it is hard to put any of this in anything but cliches …. I think awe is what we all felt at the size, perfection, and beauty overwhelming us. The next day we had to have just a last visit as we rolled out of town. The driver took us across the river to the unused site of the onyx tomb for some shots of sunrise and the Taj reflected in the water. The kids raced along the river with guards frantically blowing their whistles… ecstatic Black-Friday shoppers racing for the perfect pix instead of the perfect gift. (Thanks Liz for the picture.)

The Taj Mahal has been described as “a poem, a vision, and a wonder.” My favorite is David’s words describing it as a “sublimely useless” building.

Nameste….T I I

( There is a rumor circulating of some architecture students and their professor “flash dancing” that may be posted on YouTube…..stay tuned…..)

Posted in Architecture, India, Uncategorized | Tagged architecture, India, Taj Mahal, travel | 16 Comments

Wagah

Posted on March 15, 2013 by annetbell

Darn, just when I thought today’s post would be a short, fun description of the famous nightly border closing ceremony at Wagah, we went to see Attacks of 26/11. Though it was in Hindi, the message was very clear in actions and in facial expressions. Terror, hatred, pain….Now I see those faces along with other memories, pictures, and thoughts of friends both Indian and Pakistani. It is not a simple picture.

First, let me tell you about the border closing. It is nightly at Wagah, the last border check-point on the Pakistani Indian border about 18 miles from Amritsar in the Punjab. All along the road there were large tractor trailers filled to capacity but parked. The guide said it can take up to 3 days for the trucks to be cleared to cross the border. Security is extremely tight. I had been told that no bags either backpacks or purses are allowed, and we would have to show our passports. Traffic was heavy and as we pulled into the parking lot, venders were hawking their wares. Our security was faster in the “foreigners’’ line, but we still had the physical pat down which some of the girls object to. No one likes it and it is uncomfortable but it seems to be a necessary invasion of privacy, these days, in order to insure as much safety as possible. We had bought small Indian flags to wave and got settled in our bleacher seats. The atmosphere was one of a sporting event with chants and cheers from both sides and much flag waving. It could have been a cricket or football match between friendly rivals. A soldier from each country in finest dress uniform, goose stepped toward the other with wild cheering all around. Their steps perfectly mirrored the other. The flags were lowered, taps blown, and it was over. The crowd dispersed, and we were requested to be photographed. Everyone was in good spirits. There seemed no anger or animosity towards Pakistan. It is easy to forget that the two were once one country and it was here in the Punjab in 1947 where the division into two countries took place. Even during a period of all-out war, when the two governments thought this nightly ritual was inappropriate, loud cries of “No” were heard from both sides and the ceremony continued.

Now, here are my humble opinions on these matters. The attack in Mumbai movie was told by the Indians showing horrible slaughter of men, women, and children in a hotel, hospital, café, and cab. Of course, we couldn’t understand the dialogue, but no particular reason for the attack was made or was clear. The men from Pakistan made a political statement loudly and clearly. The Indian police were caught unprepared, armed with only stones and sticks. There is much tighter security now all over India. My opinion is that religious differences are not the root of this hatred. My life experiences have shown me that people of different faiths often have a bond and respect for each other even while disagreeing over theology. There is a kinship of being “faithful” people. I think governments “gin” up the people by accentuating the religious differences which turns to passionate hatred. The real purpose for war is often power, disputes over land, or votes. I saw that in Northern Ireland, where the British were afraid to allow the Irish to vote because their sheer numbers would overthrow them in an election.

Before moving to Phoenix, I was a real law and order person about the illegal immigration questions prominent in the news in 2005. But after seeing men wait to work for hourly wages, some working 10-12 hours to send money home to their families in Mexico, I witnessed the “faces” of illegal immigration. At night, the men would stay in crowded flop houses filled to capacity just for a place to sleep before going back on the streets. These men are real, the problems are real here and in Mexico, but something needs to be solved, and while we need to be a nation of laws, we also need to care about “the least among us.”

I have dear friends both Indian and Pakistani whom I cannot imagine hating and killing the others. But this hatred and killing is happening here often according to the news along with severe atrocities. There are angry, hate-filled people in all cultures and religions, but there are loving, peaceful ones as well. I have no knowledge about past or present wrongs on either side, but I do know that violence often makes change for only a short time. There needs to be heart changes on both sides that move toward mutual respect. I hope and pray this largest of the world’s democracies, birthplace of Gandhi, can reach a prosperous and powerful peace with her neighbor, Pakistan. Change for all of us can be slow, arduous work, but it is worth the effort.

Nameste…..T I I

Posted in India, Uncategorized | Tagged India, Pakistan, travel | 12 Comments

Jantar Mantar

Posted on March 14, 2013 by annetbell

This is one of the five observatories built by Sawai Jai Singh II and is the best preserved and largest. The park contains sixteen instruments and after four hundred years some are still used to forecast hot summers, the expected date of arrival, intensity and duration of the annual monsoons as well as the possibility of floods and famine. The observatory has been described as a “most realistic and logical landscape ever made of stone.”

This sundial shows the time of day for the two hemispheres following the solar cycle.

This small sundial calculates Jaipur’s time to an accuracy of 20 seconds!

Our visits to this observatory and the one in Delhi were an assignment for the students. They were to draw and observe, as research, for their final design project. The project is to design an Astronomical Research Center as part of the development of the riverfront in Ahmedabad, while incorporating Le Corbusier’s Millowners’ Building which is directly behind the site. David studied Physics in college and grad school and has still maintained his passion for astronomy. During the last few years, he has integrated astronomy and architecture in design projects giving students some insight into Physics. One student, on his own, has bought and read The Theory of Relativity and now is reading a Stephen Hawking book.

India has a long history with interest in astronomy. It is widely believed that one of the Wise Men in the Christmas story was from here. Much to David’s disappointment, the Indian love for the stars seems not to have started with a passion for science,but because of a cultural curiosity for astrology. Every morning horoscopes are an important section of the news for the day and are consulted when Indians make life decisions.

Nameste….T I I

This is a section of the 12 piece structure representing the signs of the zodiac. It is used by astrologers to draw up horoscopes.

Posted in Architecture, India, Uncategorized | Tagged Astrology, Astronomy, culture, education, India, travel | 4 Comments

The Pink City

Posted on March 13, 2013 by annetbell

Filled with anticipation, I arrived in the Pink City of The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel. In fact, it was my first question to our guide. He laughed and told me of another tourist who planned her whole trip around sighting scenes from the movie. The hotel actually is in a nearby city but the shots of the arches and the pink buildings were shot in Jaipur. The reputation of the Pink City is so important to the local economy, that the government furnishes just the correct color for painting the buildings inside the walls of the old city. To give you an idea how important Jaipur is for travelers to India, Eyewitness Guide India gives no less than fifteen pages to the Pink City and surrounds. There are at least three palaces, many temples and Mosques, endless narrow shopping streets, as well as the monumental arches. I have decided to share The Amber Fort and palace along with Jantar Mantar from my time in this finest example of an Indian planned grid city.

The Amber Fort established in 1592 by Man Singh I is on the site of the ruins of an 11^th century fort. The palace buildings added by Jai Singh I are the magnificent centerpiece of the site. Chittorgarh may have the designation as the largest fort, but Amber Fort is the most beautiful. As we approached, we noticed a long line leading to elephant rides to go up the cobblestone walkway into the fort. We decided not to stand in line for several hours but we wanted a ride. The guide suggested an alternative plan of visiting the elephants where they live later in the day and going for a ride there.

The screen picture with pattern design from the palace is to allow the ladies to see through but not be seen from the other side. Muslim architecture is filled with these simple elegant carved screens made of either stone or wood. There is also a hall of tiny ceiling mirrors which is transformed into a starlit sky by the reflection of a single candle. It is different from Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors but equally enchanting. Another room connected to the Audience Hall has vibrant Murano stained glass windows, imported from Venice.

As we left, we stopped for a photo of a cobra tamer. All is safe because the snakes’ fangs have been removed.

We arrived at the elephants’ barn,where they were being washed and fed after their 5 trips up to the fort. My favorite was the one painted as a tiger, but all had some decoration, gently painted on them each morning. Turns out they are all female because they are calmer. Our ride was down a street instead of up the hill to the fort. The ride was quite bumpy and reminiscent of the bus ride we had been experiencing on the trip. But we can check elephant ride off the bucket list.

Visit Shane’s video site to see David and me on the elephant ride among others from the trip. http://www.youtube.com/user/Shadapaga/videos?flow=grid&view=0

This is indeed India…the India of every child’s dreams….

Nameste!

Posted in Architecture, India, Uncategorized | Tagged Amber Fort, cobra, elephants, India, Jaipur, snake charmer, travel | 4 Comments

Home with Ginger

Posted on March 12, 2013 by annetbell

Today, I feel frivolous! Never having had a linear thought in my life, I have decided to take a detour of my stories from the North and describe our return to “A” Town, (Ahmedabad) last Sunday. After visiting the Indian travelers’ equivalent of an Italian travelers’ visits to Rome, Florence and Venice…Taj Mahal, Golden Temple, Jaipur/Varanasi, (I couldn’t choose just three!), we lift Delhi on an overnight train. I was excited as I love train travel. Surviving the throngs of Delhi travelers pushing/shoving through security and milling around on the platform, our train finally rolled into the station. We had a 2A accommodations which means two bunk bed organization with a total of 6 people together in a space. A sleepover! It is possible to have 3A or even 4A available, which sounds like coffin sleeping to me. After more jostling and confusion, we found our spots marked with a pillow and case, clean sheets, towel, and the proverbial brown wool blanket found all over India. Dinner either veg or not, plus breakfast were served and a pleasant unexpected gift. After a pretty good night of sleep, and arriving in Ahmedabad, we were back to reality. The train stopped and we hailed rickshaws and haggled over a few rupees or “rupes” as the students call them.

Our big “a-ha” moment was that we were coming home. After two months we felt at ease and content on our way back to the hostel….The Presidency Enclave. As we entered the no name lane where we live, there was an empty rickshaw parked along the wall. What to our surprise, there was Ginger taking a nap in the back seat! (Check my post on Feral Dogs) It was as if he was waiting there, catching some zzz’s but ready to welcome us back. He jumped up, tail wagging, and guarded our walk as a personal escort, growling at the other dogs to stay away. He had not forgotten us. We were home!

Nameste…T I I

Posted in India, Uncategorized | Tagged dogs, home, India, travel | 13 Comments

A Fairy-Tale City….Udaipur

Posted on March 11, 2013 by annetbell

The City Palace dominates the Eastern shore of the lake. The architecture is a blending of Raiput military with Mughal style decoration. Today, the palace is a combination museum and luxurious hotel. There are many 5 * hotels including a floating one. All this was considered when including Udiapur in an elite list of world cities in 2010, according to our guide. You don’t need to be in $1000+ a night hotel room to enjoy this magical city. We weren’t and we did!

The City Palace perched on the top of the hill is most notable as the site for some of the filming of the Bond film ” Octopussy.” Note the pictures of the students in a café for dinner.The food was “sketchy”, the service slow and we saw ” Octopussy” which we voted as the worst Bond film ever made! But we crossed a lighted bridge, wandered through the narrow dark streets of the old town, gazed at the illuminated castle lit up as a beacon, while continuing to dominate the area even in the darkness. You can see pictures from the boat ride the next day when the students sketched and David and I strolled.

Udiapur is a city complete with marble palaces, a lake with romantic hotels and gardens, picturesque Ghats, ancient temples, and a lively bazaar inside the walls of the old city. A must see for a journey through India . . .you can write your own fairy tale…….

Posted in Architecture, India, Uncategorized | Tagged architecture of India, movies, North India Itinerary, travel | Leave a comment

North to Rajasthan

Posted on March 10, 2013 by annetbell

Our first stop was the state of Rajasthan which is rich in magnificent palaces, ancient, crumbling forts, colorful bazaars, and tourists everywhere. The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel was shot here. More on that later. The desert dwellers of this part of India wouldn’t have survived without camels which have been used for transportation, beasts of burden, and as a source of nourishment from their slightly salty tasting milk.

Chittorgarh, a fort begun in 728 AD, was our first stop. It is the largest of the many Rajastan forts. In 1303, it was under siege by Sultan Khilji, who wanted the land as well as the beautiful queen of the present king. STUDENT ALERT: Remember that the Trojan War was fought over the beautiful Helen of Troy after Paris, the Spartan, kidnapped her. This story had no Trojan Horse to end the war. In the Indian story, when the beautiful queen Padimi realized that her husband’s defeat was inevitable, she and 13,000 of the women in Chittorgarh committed mass suicide by immolation (death by fire), rather than be dishonored by the approaching soldiers. Today, the fort’s filled with ruins of palaces, temples and hungry monkeys. We were warned not to put our hands in our pockets because that is a signal to the monkeys that you have food to give them, and they come to get it. Several students were hissed and snarled at through the clinched teeth of disappointed monkeys.

On the way to Udiapur, we stopped at several Hindu temples, which I didn’t photograph. One complex is Nagda which is known as the mother and daughter-in-law temples that dates back to the 11^th century. The site was different because it was rural, in the midst of fields. We saw it at sunset which was stunning. Eklingji which has 108 (a Hindu lucky number) Hindu temples on the spot where a special blessing was given by a sage to the founder of the Mewer dynasty. We were there at dusk and no photography was allowed. There were flower sellers at the entrance where we removed our shoes. The complex was sited between two existing buildings narrow at the front and spreading out behind the entrance and main temple. The construction was marble and granite blocks. As we walked toward the temple, I noticed the high stone walls and cobblestone block walkway, I thought of pictures I have seen of the narrow streets of old Jerusalem, which I have not visited. This temple was to honor Shiva, who is one of the three main gods of Hinduism. The flickering lights, the sound of the gong, chanting, and the smell of incense were a continuing assault of the senses.

Nemaste…………T I I

Posted in India, Uncategorized | Tagged architecture of Rajastan, India | Leave a comment

Rock Stars !?!

Posted on February 21, 2013 by annetbell

Ahmedabad is not a tourist destination. It is a working class city which used to be called the Manchester (UK) of India due to the many fabric mills. It could also be dubbed the Boston of India because of the 42 institutions of higher learning in or around Ahmedabad. None of my India American friends had been to Ahmedabad. Ironically, it was voted the most livable city in India for the year 2012. Mr. Modi, who is the minister for Gujarat, is being courted to run for Prime Minister in 2014 because of his success here.

None of us were prepared for the reception we received when we arrived. Everywhere we walked, people smiled, said hello, and asked to have a picture taken with some or all of us. This wasn’t just the “twenty-somethings”, but David and me as well. They would motion for us to remove our sunglasses to check eye color. If it was blue, we were rewarded with a huge smile. Two students were particularly popular for pictures. Tyler, a redhead with blue eyes, a towering 6’ frame, and a gregarious personality, makes friends everywhere he goes. Erin has golden curls and deep blue eyes. She has had repeated proposals of marriage, to which she sweetly smiles and acknowledges with a polite “No, thank you.”

From these experiences as well as watching Bollywood videos and commercials on TV for skin lightening products, it is evident that light skin is considered desirable. There are people of all ages with a certain shade of red hair which I image is a result of trying to lighten their hair. I guess it is the human condition that makes people long for something different; such as Westerners working hard to darken their skin even to the extinct of endangering their health in tanning beds.

The pictures: 9^th graders and me at the Modhera Sun Temple

Step Well near Ahmedabad , David and me on the steps. Pictures by Shane.

My favorite picture is of the mother who had handed me her baby son so un-expectantly. I know now, that she wanted me to touch the top of his head in a blessing. Mothers’ love is universal! (Thanks, Connie D.)

Many thanks to the gentle, friendly, welcoming Indians of Almedabad!

Student blogs by Andrew and my tech girl, Erin: (Thanks for your patient tech help, Erin!)

http://andrewvanmeerbeke.wordpress.com

http://travelpod.com/members/erinbutler

Enjoy! Nameste. . . . T I I

Posted in India, Uncategorized | Tagged celebrities | 18 Comments

North Trip Itinerary

Posted on February 21, 2013 by annetbell

The following is the itinerary for the north trip. You will be able to follow along with our journey north filled with sacred and secular architecture. We will be gone from this Saturday and return on March 10^th. I doubt I will be able to post while we are travelling. DBell leaves very little downtime! Google the places and see some wonderful pictures.

We are not going to Allahabad, but there is a festival going on there for 55 days. It is when Hindus from across the world come to bathe in the Ganges. The festival is called Maha Kumbh Mela. The opening weekend, there was an estimated crowd of 30 million. This year the estimated attendance for the complete festival will be 110 million which is 1/3 of the population of the United States. It will be the largest gathering of humanity in a single place in history. Already, 275,000 people have gotten lost from their family. I have no idea how they will reconnect. I cannot get my head around these numbers.

DAVID BELL

ASSOCIATE PROFESSOR

SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE

RENSSELAER POLYTECHNIC INSTITUTE

110 EIGHTH STREET

TROY, NY 12180

USA

ASSOCIATED WITH CEPT UNIVERSITY

SCHOOL OF ARCHITECTURE

AHMEDABAD

PROPOSED ITINERARY FOR FIELD TRIP FEBRUARY 23 – MARCH 10, 2013 FOR 13 PEOPLE (SELF, WIFE, 11 RENSSELAER STUDENTS)

REQUESTING 1 COACH, ROUND TRIP FLIGHT DELHI TO VARANASI (COACH IN VARANASI), TRAIN FRPM FOR 18 PEOPLE, TRAIN FROM DELHI TO AHMEDABAD

FEBRUARY 23

Depart at 6:00 am from Presidency Enclave, 7 Darshan Society, Samved Hospital Road (near Nidhi Hospital), Navrangpura, Ahmedabad 380009

2 nights in Udaipur (February 23 & 24)

Visit: Jag Niwas (Lake Palace), City Palace, Mor Chowk

Depart for Jaipur on February 25 at 7:00am

Visit either Kumbhalgarh Fort or Chittogarh Fort on the way to Jaipur

2 nights in Jaipur (February 25 & 26)

Visit: Pink City, Jantar Mantar, Jami Masjid (mosque), City Palace Museum, Jawahr Kala Kendra (20^th c., Charles Correa) The Amber Fort

Depart for Agra on February 27 at 7:00am

Visit Chand Baori step well near Abhaneri on the way to Agra

2 nights in Agra (February 27 & 28)

Visit: Taj Mahal, Fatepur Sikri (Jami Masjid complex), Mathura

Depart for Delhi on March 1 at 7:00am

2 nights in Delhi (March 1 & 2)

Visit: Chandini Chowk, Jantar Mantar

Depart for Amritsar on March 3 at 7:00am

2 nights in Amritsar (March 3 & 4)

Visit Golden Temple, Guru ka Langar (free kitchen), Border closing ceremony

Depart for Chandigarh on March 5 at 7:00am

1 night in Chandigarh (March 5)

Visit: Le Corbusier buildings

Depart for Delhi on March 6 at 1:00pm

1 night in Delhi (March 6)

Depart by air for Varanasi on March 7 before noon, coach for 18 picks us up at Varanasi airport and we will have the coach available while we visit Varanasi

2 nights in Varanasi (March 7 & 8)

Visit: Ghats, Jantar Mantar, Vishnawath Temple, Dhamek Stupa

Depart on morning flight to Delhi on March 9, coach for 18 picks us up at Delhi airport

Leave Delhi on overnight train to Ahmedabad (March 9)

ARRIVE IN AHMEDABAD ON MORNING OF MARCH 10

Nameste! T I I

Posted in Uncategorized | Tagged North India Itinerary | 2 Comments

Palitana, Gujarat from 2/13/13

Posted on February 17, 2013 by annetbell

Our trip began at five in the morning for a one-way five hour tour coach ride. Travelling in the country is slow going as many of the roads are only two lanes. It was quite nerve wracking as I had not learned to close my eyes, but watched as the cars, wagons, and bikes would seemingly play chicken with oncoming traffic while trying to pass. At the last minute, one or the other would return to their safe lane and an accident would be avoided. I kept thinking the bus is safer and bigger, right?

Palitana, (pronounced as in Italian) is an extraordinary cluster of sacred architecture consisting of one thousand Jain Temples. Most date to the sixteenth century, and the earlier parts of the complex were destroyed by invaders. The shrines are scattered over twin summits, and the climb is 2 ½ miles one way, accessed by 4000+ steps. The guide book says it is a hike of about 2 hours each way, though it took us longer.

David and the students completed the hike, both up and down with their handy Ghandi bamboo sticks. I tried, giving it my best, with my trusty stick. There were carriers who work in pairs or double pairs carrying those who are unable to walk either to the top or the bottom. I didn’t want to think I needed carrying either because of my age or health. On the way up, I struggled about halfway walking and resting, and catching my breath. I was asked repeatedly if I wished to be carried and I would reply, “No thank you.” When my chest started to tighten up, I relented and ignored my pride. It was not worth having a heart attack on a mountain in Gujurat!

After time at the temples, we started our descent. The two men who had carried me halfway up, appeared and walked beside me as they regularly inquired, “Ride, auntie?” (Women of a certain age are called affectionately and respectfully, auntie. Men are called, uncle.) I was rested and my pride had returned. Surely, I could walk down, but again I had about 2000 steps in me when I gave in and climbed aboard the seat. I must have been a hilarious sight as I was not able to sit in the yoga position and my feet were extended as I sat sideways! I am hoping I am not on You Tube! Give me a heads-up if you see it and don’t laugh!

Thanks to my friend Shane for letting me borrow some of his photos for this post.

Nameste! T I I…..

Posted in Architecture, Uncategorized | Tagged temple | 13 Comments