For several mornings, very early, we have been hearing loud mating calls of the peacocks. Yesterday, I stood on the roof terrace and saw them flying from roof top to roof top in a sort of mating dance. Yes, peacocks do fly, if rather awkwardly and slowly. Spring is in the air and we even have a pigeon nesting in a cut out area of the ceiling near our room at the hostel. . . .Yes, I said a pigeon building a nest inside the hostel!
Trust me that this is a picture of a pigeon up on the shelf. How is that possible, you might ask. Well it is India, which is always the response to such a question. . . .
This is the window just outside our room and the landing before the pigeon nest. You may be able to tell that the window has no glass or screen, but is forever open, thus allowing birds easy access! Thankfully no monkeys have decided to enter , uninvited!
We first saw feathers on the floor and then a smashed egg on the floor. This peaked our curiosity and Mukess the cook, stood on a chair and showed us another unbroken egg on the shelf where the bird had been nesting.
I was worried the mama would reject the egg if she sensed human interference, but trusted that Mukess knew what he was talking about. He also put up some screen with an opening both to protect this egg from falling and let the mom have access.
We are familiar with bird rescues, having saved, fed and let go both Robins and Starlings in Kansas and in New York when baby birds fell from their nests. But we had never touched an unhatched egg.
I had started this tale before the south trip began and now we are back and here is the update. The mama bird has switched sides of the shelf opening , the screen is still protecting the egg, but there is still no sign of a baby pigeon!
Here are Mukess and his wife Jayssree.
He is 27 years old and worked in the hotel business since he was 17 in Goa and in Amdavad. He has worked very hard on his English since we were here two years ago. He carries a well worn little dictionary to use and reuse in trying to learn more English. My thoughts are that he is capable enough to have continued in school but had to stop to earn money. Jayssree helps prepare the vegetables and also does our laundry for a very small price. How many more Indian people are in the same situation?
After seven amazing places in fourteen days, we arrived safely back at the hostel about 12:30 this morning. Our good friend, Salim with his fleet of 6 rickshaws met us at the airport. We felt so appreciated with hugs and smiles all around. They are so dependable and safe. Salim has been one of the many special friends we have made here.
Yesterday was a travel day and a contrast from when we were in Mumbai earlier in the trip to make connections south. We actually sat in the airport for 6 hours waiting for our connection. That is a long time even in the beautiful new terminal.
One of the boys had been fighting some “Delhi Belly” symptoms and was looking very pale. I suggested again that he should agree to seeing a doctor, But I had no authority to force the issue. I was just suggesting what a mother or grandmother would do for her children. I was sure that a doctor was on call at this huge international airport. After asking around, I finally met the person who could call the doctor who arrived in less than 15 minutes. She had an EMT with her who rolled her meds and instruments for her. There was a private consultation with some meds being prescribed and instructions if he was worse or no better by the next day, that he should see some other doctor. And the doctor, the visit , and the meds were all complimentary ! We were very surprised and pleased at that news. The next day, just on the pattern from the last group, he was feeling much better and even had an appetite. This Indian ” Delhi Belly” lasts with great discomfort for four days and then disappears.
Yesterday, we flew to Mumbai from Aurangabad, after climbing around in the 1500 year old temples carved from caves as our last stop on this trip. We got to the airport about two hours from the departure time to find that our flight to Mumbai on Air India had been delayed for two hours. This was a problem because the next and last leg of the trip back home to Amdavad was on Jet Air in another terminal with only 1 hour in between. Yikes, collecting our luggage , getting to the second terminal in such a huge airport, checking in, getting all the necessary tags, going through security! Dbell went into crisis mode! Two of the boys would get trolleys and collect the checked bags while the rest of us went to the new ticket counter to wait and look pitiful. We thought since there are 12 of us the plane might be held but we weren’t sure. A kind representative at Jet Air printed out our boarding passes so we had them before we landed to make connections in Mumbai.
Well, it actually all worked out and we were all at the gate ready to board with 10 minutes to spare! So from the 6 hour wait several days previously to 10 minutes to spare to make a connection. . . . Just goes to show that travelling in Incredible India is an adventure and not a vacation from beginning to the end!
Here is our itinerary for the trip that begins tomorrow. Between the heat, and getting ready, and other things, I have been dithering about several posts I have started. So I decided to share what we are doing for the next few weeks so you can travel along with us !
You will see that we are not visiting any of the major cities but concentrating on sacred architecture. The problem with the cities is first they are very expensive for people on a budget and because of the expanse of the area, much time is spent in traffic jams or just general time to go from site to site. WiFi will be iffy I imagine but I am taking my laptop just in-case.
David Bell
Mar 29 (1 day ago)
Below is the itinerary for the south trip. Please bring everything that you are not going to take on the trip to room 81 by 5pm on Monday, March 30.
Salim and co. will pick us up at 3:45am, Tuesday morning to go to the airport.
DB
FLIGHT DETAIL WITH SCHEDULE
AHMEDABAD CHENNAI: DT: 31 MARCH: SPICEJET SG 501 DEP AMD 06 00 ARR CHENNAI 08 30
COCHIN GOA: DT: 9 APRIL: SPICEJET SG 3261/3103 DEP COK 07 55 ARR GOA 13 40
GOA MUM: DT: 11 APRIL GO AIR G8 376 DEP 06 50 ARR MUM 07 55
MUM AURANGABAD: 11 APRIL: AIR INDIA AI 442 DEP 015 00 ARR AURANGABAD 15 55
AURANGABAD MUM: 13 APRIL: AIR INDIA AI 441 DEP 17 20 ARR MUM 18 10
MUM AMD: 13 APRIL: JET AIR 9W 375 DEP MUM 21 15 ARR AMD 22 30
HOTEL DETAIL WITH ADDRESS & CONTACT NO
No days
Date
Destination
Hotels
PLAN- CPAI
BREAKFAST & TAX
31/03/2015
Ahmedabad to Chennai by Flight
FLIGHT NO:
TIME:
Day 1
31/03/2015
Chennai
HOTEL PRIDE
216 E V R Periyar Salai, Poonamallee High Road, Kilpauk, Chennai, 600010
Phone:044 4398 9898
Day 2
01/04/2015
Chennai
HOTEL PRIDE
Day 3
02/04/2015
Pondicherry
WINDFLOWER
Survey No.198/1,198/2, Manavely Revenue Village, Maraimalai Adigal Street, Chinnaveeram Pattinam, Ariyankuppam Post, Puducherry 605007
Phone:0413 260 3200
Day 4
03/04/2015
Pondicherry
WINDFLOWER
Day 5
04/04/2015
Thanjavur
HOTEL SANGAM
Trichy Road, Thanjavur – 613007
Tel : 91-4362-239451
Day 6
05/04/2015
Madurai
GERMANUS
28, Bypass Road, Madurai, Tamil Nadu 625010
Phone:0452 435 6999
Day 7
06/04/2015
Madurai
GERMANUS
Day 8
07/04/2015
Alleppy
LEMON TREE
Janaskthi Road,
Kayippuram,Muhamma, Alappuzha, Kerala 688525
Phone:0478 286 1970
Day 9
08/04/2015
Alleppy
LEMON TREE
SUPERIOR
09/04/2015
Cochin to Goa by Flight
FLIGHT NO:
TIME:
Day 10
09/04/2015
Goa
MAP- BF/ DINNER & SIGHTSEEING FOR HALF DAY
Day 11
10/04/2015
Goa
10/04/2015
Goa To Aurangabad by Flight
FLIGHT NO:
TIME:
Day 12
11/04/2015
Aurangabad
Day 13
12/04/2015
Aurangabad
Aurangabad To Ahmedabad by Flight
FLIGHT NO:
TIME:
Anuj Pathak
RADIANT HOLIDAYS A/ 405, PREMIUM HOUSE, B/H HANDLOOM HOUSE, NR GANDHIGRAM STATION, ASHRAM ROAD, AHMEDABAD – 380009 GUJARAT, INDIA
Meet a truly amazing architect whom we have had the pleasure of meeting and talking to. He is a gentle , kind, humble man who is known as the “Father of Indian Architecture.” He is 88 years old and an excellent advertisement for the Indian lifestyle. He is spry in body and mind. He will be on the final jury of this semester at the Mill Owners’ Building for the students we have with us. He gave dbell that honor being one of his critics last time and the students will never forget his directing, helpful but always encouraging advice. He is a teacher.
Two stories I think best show this man’s heart is the humility he showed years ago when he was offered the commission for IIM , Indian Institute of Management here in Ahmadabad. He said, he was not worthy of such an honor and suggested Louis Kahn his American friend. He said he would be his Indian connection and they would work together. Architects are known for their egos, but this gentle soul is just that. . . . a tremendously talented architect who is first and formost a gentle Indian soul.
We spent the afternoon with him over the weekend. When I name was menitoned, Mr. Doshi would say something such as “He is very polite or He is very kind.” Never once did he put his value on “He is a great designer!”
One of the things that has confused and yes annoyed the students and us is how Indian people stand in line or don’t, exactly. Here is a picture which tells the story. The concept of personal space does not exit, and I dare say Indian people have no idea about it. As a culture, Americans stand one behind the other not touching others in line. Note the difference in the line in the image. People butt in line and move up at will. There never seems to be malice in thought or act. It just is.
The question came up as to why the Indian parents don’t teach their children not to rudely stare or now butt in line. It is a good culture lesson in that it is not rude to do those things here. Period. It is India and there is a difference. After six months in country, I have just understood the standing in line situation. This is exactly the way they drive, scooting in out our of traffic, moving ahead, even going the wrong way to avoid the stopped traffic. It is just the life in a country with over 1.2 billion people all squeezed into a land mass the size of 1/3 of the US! The population is more than all the people in North America, Central America, and South America combined ! I think I have solved the mystery! Do you agree?
A Town on New York’s Hudson River Reinvents Itself
Photo
Troy’s downtown is rich with Victorian architecture.CreditTony Cenicola/The New York Times
By C. J. HUGHES
Curled along the Hudson River 150 miles north of Manhattan, Troy made shirt collars that could be detached and washed, back when such fashions were in vogue in the 19th century. When that look faded, Collar City hit a rough patch. But new stylish restaurants, quirky boutiques and a craft brewery in a downtown rich with Victorian architecture are helping Troy, population 50,000, become the latest Hudson Valley address to mount a comeback. A former department store is giving way to the Tech Valley Center of Gravity, a start-up incubator, which joins the Troy Savings Bank Music Hall, a Beaux-Arts stage for comedy, bluegrass and Bach.
Lucas Confectionery Wine Bar
This elegant two-year-old hideaway, the creation of the husband-and-wife team of Vic Christopher and Heather LaVine, pairs French pinot noirs with inventive dishes like six-minute eggs with confit mushrooms and shallots, while a bathroom-door sign, “Troylet,” cheekily owns up to the city’s derogatory nickname. The adjacent Grocery, owned by the same couple, offers fresh sandwiches, and next-door’s Peck’s Arcade, their more formal three-month-old restaurant, spins records nightly.
This spare but cozy craft brewery opened last May after the owner, Kevin Mullen, relocated from Seattle. Here locals sip Sabbatical Session, a rye-based ale, in full view of the silver tanks that produced it while nibbling on Chevrot goat cheese and smoked goose and duck prosciutto carved by their bartender ($6 per snack; pints, too).
Rare Form Brewing Company; and Weathered Wood of Troy.CreditTony Cenicola/The New York Times
Weathered Wood of Troy
This eclectic store, which opened last summer a few steps from the column-adorned hub called Monument Square, specializes in light fixtures, peace signs and coat racks made from Hudson River driftwood, which the co-owners, Katherine Hammill and Daniel Killion, say is less likely to crack than the ocean variety.
Trojans and out-of-towers alike are discovering this brownstone bank-turned-drug-rehab-center-turned- men’s wear store, which also sells trendy old-school men’s grooming products like straight razors, shaving cream brushes and plastic combs alongside dress shirts made by Penguin — with collars attached.
Downtown’s can-do, make-do spirit is taken to another level at this former hardware store that has repurposed hammers, wrenches and clamps as beer-head taps and art, and whose hearty menu features a lumberjack stew, with lamb ($18), and poutine, the gravy-and-cheese-curds Canadian favorite ($9). Wash them down with a Redneck (Pabst Blue Ribbon, vodka and lemonade, $6).
This lovely picture was taken on the grounds of the Golden Temple in Amritsar. Notice the orange triangular head scares that are mandatory for entrance. But let me tell you the back story. . . . . We, as a group, were touring a large site near Amdavad and after walking around in the blazing sun, we rested on some stairs shaded by the ruins of a old palace to watch some Indian boys enjoying Cricket in a nearby field. There were some Indian men sitting and watching and resting , also.
One of the men asked our rickshaw fleet leader Salim, “Are they all one family?” When Salim translated for us, we hooted with laughter! There are 10 students in our Indian family! And as you can see from the image. . . several nationalities are represented. Well I know that there are families who thorough adoption have similar families. So we have adopted our large family and dbell has affectionately named Royd and Jhoan , “the twins!”
Last night we were invited to a dinner party with some professors of architecture as well as practicing architects. One of the questions they asked us was what were changes we have seen in the city since our last visit in 2013. Here is a major one.
A car, a fence, a tree? No, the blue trash bin! This is a great first step to begin the huge task of trash and garbage in India. Of course, more challenges arise to get people to use them, keep them emptied, and recycle for the environment long term.
I have to say I have not actually seen an Indian person put something into the trash bins around the city, but I have seen evidence of them being there. Many of the bins are full to overflowing, just sitting there waiting to be pick-up. It reminded; me of Rome with filled to overflowing trash baskets on the streets. That was in the 1980s . Change is hard for all of us to make it a habit. Another encouraging people is I have seen trash trucks on our travles and in Amdavad where workers are dumping the garbage into the truck. I have also seen flatbed trucks where women are sorting garbage. . . cardboard into tiled piles, and bottles into a bin. Last time I only remember trsh trucks in Chenni!
The trash and garbage problem has just been so huge, it took monumnetal government support. We see people throwing paper on the streets all the time. I even saw a women throw some trash over the rail of the roof terrace at the hostel. But I am very encouraged, that sooner or later this problem will be solved At the Alpha One Mall which is state of the art in mall consturcion is pristine in it’s appearance. There are continuaou sweepers and cleaners , of course giving jobs for people who need them , but also keeping the mall “new” in its appearance even after 5 years of being in operation.
Last trip I wrote the following post about the continuous sweeping !
Well some change is good as solutions to problems become clear to all. But another aspect of this problem of trash removal is still solved with the morning burning of leaves in the lane where we live.
Cough, cough!
This Is Incredible India!
I would love to hear your thoughts!
Something else I just thought to tell you. . . . . When we go to KFC or Domino’s, we pick up our trash to put it in the binds and someone always runs over ans says “NO!” That is his job and he wants to do it. With over 1 billion people, there is an effort to employ as many people as possible. I have no idea the wages. . . . may just be food. The funniest thing we have seen along these lines is at a toll booth on the highways, there is a man on the outside of the toll window to whom you give the money and then he hands it to the man inside with the money box! A job! Anyway, I mention that because Indian people are not always used to throwing away their trash! But they are learning. I hope another job will be available for thes people who will be out of work! Oh, I digress. . . . . from trash removal. . . . .
Near the top of the list of desired adventures in India for the students was to ride an elephant. Jaijpur is the place to do it.. You can stand in line for hours at the Amber Fort and have the dramatice ride into the fort. We chose to visit the fort longer and go to the Elephant Village later in the day. There were all sorts of packages, feed the elephant, paint on the elephant, bathe the elephant for additional money but our kids only wanted a ride on an elephant. David and I did this last trip and once was enough, honestly. Pretty uncomfortable lumbering along. Plus there was some uncomfortable drama with our elephant last time when she couldn’t see her mama in front of her. Loud, head back, trunk up trumping and turning to see mom.. Pretty scary from our position. Anyway, I was going to ride this time if there was a single student who didn’t have a person to ride with , but it wasn’t necessary, and I was fine with the memory of the 2013 trip ! And of course, I had a chance to meet an elephant back in Abdavad!
TalesAlongTheWay 