Though Ahmedabad has more than 300 derasars ( Jain temples), this stands apart for its grandeur, craftsmanship, and elegance. Every surface of this large stone complex is covered by painstaking craftsmanship and details of elaborate sculptures of gods and goddesses, musicians and flowers. In the mid 19th century a terrible drought hit this region of the country and many of the skilled artisans came to the city looking for work. This temple provided a livelihood for the craftsmen for a two year period. The style  is a combination of Ahmedabad and Jain architecture. The entrance portico resembles the traditional haveli or mansion.  There were craftsman and women working to repair the intricate decoration on all the buildings the day we visited. 

Just to the left as you enter is this colonnaded cloister containing 52 shires. The Jain practice is to detach from the world outside by circumventing the space three times before entering the main space.

This is the main temple which consist of the altar, a closed hall with side porches, a vestibule and  a performance hall with three entrances. The morning, we visited there was a wedding taking place. Men were on one side and women and children on the other.

The roof was accessible by small stairs and each of those domes were to commemorate Mount Meru, at the holy source of the Ganges, and home of Shiva.  This mountain is holy in Hinduism, Jainism, and Buddhism.  In the large entrace courtyard, there is a place to leave shoes.  All the temples in India require that shoes be removed. Several in the south, would allow sock feet , but some banned socks, too. When the temperature was well over 100 degrees, walking on the hot stones was quite painful.

This particular temple was designed and begun by Kesreesing Hutheesing one of the very generous and prominent trade merchants in the area.  After his untimely death, his wife Harkunvar completed the work. Though she was of modest formal education, she showed  a real talent and intelligence for business. Under her managerial skills, she completed this  temple, built  the Civil Hospital, and established the city’s first girls’ school.  All this during the 19th Century when  few girls were educated and fewer women were in charge of philanthropic projects.

This pillar of respect or manastambha which is reminiscent of a mosque minaret was built in 2003  to  celebrated the  2500 birth anniversary of Mahavira the 24th and last  tirthankar or “crossing maker” accredited with establishing the principals of Jainism.

As we left, we all were given a red thread tired  around our wrist. We actually still have them on  though they have stretched and have  needed to be  cut back.  No one told us  what it means, but we think it is a blessing or wish for good luck.

A man was passing out lovely decorated envelopes that Ahmedabad is known for with a new 10 rupee note!  We said, we weren’t invited to the wedding. But he smiled and gave us one nonetheless!  We kept that for a long time but finally used it for a rickshaw ride!

Examples of the elaborate envelopes made and sold in Ahmedabad.

Namaste. . . .T I I I